I went in mid-May - a great time to experience the south-west of Ireland. It was an area renowned for its natural beauty. I intended to sign up for every available bus tour. According to my research, at that time of the year there was a protusion of yellow gorse, wild yellow iris, white hawthorn and blackthorn, pink seathrift, red rhododendron and fuchsia, aromatic wild garlic, and wild rhubarb. Tufts of golden sea grass grew out of sand dunes on the strands, stunning seascapes with rocky shorelines extended for miles, and grey driftwood, in large sculptural shapes like creatures out of scary fairy tales adorned homes and commercial establishments. And apparently, palm trees - yes palm trees! - were thriving in the south of Ireland. I found it hard to believe. The bus was noisy, the roads bumpy, and the way from Limerick to Tralee not what you would call a straight line. I almost got carsick.

In Killarney I was reassured by a passer-by that the distance between the bus terminal and my bed and breakfast was a mere short walk. There were no cabs in sight, and it was raining seriously. I had no choice. I walked. I walked along East Avenue Road past the Town Hall, the Information Bureau and the money exchange. All good information gleaned for future use. As directed, I made a right onto Main Street, which turned into High Street, and I found Orchard House in Fleming Lane. Mary and Patrick Maloney greeted me effusively and soon made me feel at home.

I started out exploring county Kerry with an O'Connor bus tour of the Ring of Kerry. Our driver Frank had a great sense of humour and between jokes, he played trad - trad is short for traditional Irish music that made me want to get up and dance in the aisle.

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